Which animals are where in the Galapagos Islands

A few weeks ago I wrote about the best time to go to the Galapagos Islands, and where to go on your adventure cruise in the Galapagos.

If you are looking for specific animal species, here is where you can find them:

• Red footed booby - year round; Genovesa, Darwin, Wolf, Floreana, Punta Pitt on San Cristóbal
• Blue Footed booby - year round on most islands
• Nazca booby  - year round and best seen on Genovesa, Española and Floreana
• Frigatebird - year round on North Seymour, Floreana, Isabela, Genovesa and San Cristóbal
• Flightless cormorant - year round, nests July - October.  North & west coasts Isabela, east coast Fernandina
• Greater flamingo - year round on Floreana, Isabela, Santiago, Rábida and Santa Cruz
• Galapagos penguins - year round, nests May - January.  Fernandina and the west coast of Isabela
• Waved Albatross - year round, nests April - June.  Española Island
• Galapagos Green Turtle - December - June on most islands
• Giant Tortoise - year round in the wild on Isabela, Pinzón, Pinta, Santiago, Santa Cruz, San Cristóbal and Española.
• Land iguana - year round on Fernandina, Isabela, Santa Cruz, North Seymour, Española and South Plaza.
• Marine Iguana - year round on most islands
• Lava lizard - year round on most islands
• Sea lions - year round, breeds May - January; all islands
• Humpback whale - July - September around Bartolomé and Española 

Try to include Fernandina, Isabela and Española in your itinerary. They offer a lot of the different species you can see on your adventure cruise in the Galapagos Islands.  Rábida (Jervis) and Santiago (James) offer the best snorkeling in the islands.

Galapagos Topographical Map - Wikipedia

Best time to visit South East Asia

This article has been moved to our new blog

Cenote in the Yucatan

I have been lucky enough to swim in cenotes in Cuba.  A cenote is a natural pit, or sinkhole resulting from the collapse of limestone bedrock that exposes groundwater underneath. Especially associated with the Yucatán Peninsula of Mexico, cenotes were sometimes used by the ancient Maya for sacrificial offerings.

Look what happens when a photographer descends in to the depths of a cenote and takes some stunning photographs.

Photos courtesy of BBC Travel.

Morocco Vegetable Curry

Curry Marrakesh - photo courtesy of allrecipes.com

Just in time for the holidays is this recipe I am going to cook!

Ingredients - makes 6 servings

1 sweet potato, peeled and cubed

1 medium eggplant, cubed

1 green bell pepper, chopped

1 red bell pepper, chopped

2 carrots, chopped

1 onion, chopped

6 tablespoons olive oil

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 tablespoon curry powder

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

3/4 teaspoon sea salt

3/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 (15 ounce) can garbanzo beans, drained

1/4 cup blanched almonds

1 zucchini, sliced

2 tablespoons raisins

1 cup orange juice

10 ounces spinach



Directions:

   
In a large Dutch oven place sweet potato, eggplant, peppers, carrots, onion, and three tablespoons oil. Saute over medium heat for 5 minutes.

In a medium saucepan place 3 tablespoons olive oil, garlic, turmeric, curry powder, cinnamon, salt and pepper and saute over medium heat for 3 minutes.

Pour garlic and spice mixture into the Dutch oven with vegetables in it. Add the garbanzo beans, almonds, zucchini, raisins, and orange juice. Simmer 20 minutes, covered.

Add spinach to pot and cook for 5 more minutes. Serve!


Drink with:

Curries can be paired with a nice bottle of Gewurztraminer.

Best cycling trips in Asia

Cycling is one of the best ways to see a country.  You are outside all day and can stop at will to explore a market or village, eat a local meal, visit a museum, castle or temple or admire a view.  In many places in Asia the bicycle is the preferred mode of transport of many local people.  So let's join them and explore Asia on two wheels!

The trips listed below are for people who enjoy a weekend riding on either trails or roads at home will enjoy these trips. You need to be in good health and reasonably fit. Ideal for occasional cyclists, or as a more relaxed trip for fitter riders.  Distances on road trips rarely exceed 70 kms (43 miles) per day.


If you are looking for cycling trips which require a higher level of fitness, go to the blog post Challenging Bicycle Trips in Asia.

Cycle Indochina & Angkor: this journey takes us across three countries with contrasting recent histories and subtly different cultures. From the busy streets of Bangkok we make straight for the rolling limestone hills of Thailand's largest national park, Khao Yai.
Moving into Cambodia we head through shimmering paddy fields to Angkor, the magnificent temple and city complex at the centre of the former Khmer Empire and one of the world's great historic sites. We reach Phnom Penh, where we encounter stark reminders of Cambodia's more recent past.
Arriving in Vietnam, we enter the Mekong Delta, a criss-crossed patchwork of rice paddies and waterways, the so-called 'rice bowl of Vietnam'.
We complete our journey in the vibrant city of Saigon where the frenetic pace contrasts with some of the rural areas we have cycled through.

Cycling Vietnam: this superb trip combines some of the best cycling routes in Vietnam with time for rest and exploration.  Travelling on two wheels gets us closer to life in Vietnam and to the outgoing and welcoming Vietnamese who share our love affair with the bicycle. Over-laden bicycles and motorbikes typify Vietnamese life and passing encounters with local cyclists may leave us with some of our strongest memories.
Vietnam is a beautiful country, with a long coastline of broad, sandy beaches, shimmering paddy fields and mountains cloaked in forests. Our route takes us from the vibrant streets of Saigon northwards to the more conservative capital Hanoi.
Out of the saddle we have time to relax in the lively beachside town of Nha Trang, enjoy the laid-back atmosphere and great shopping of Hoi An with its wooden merchant houses, pagodas, bustling market crowded with conical hats and women in the bright colours of their national dress, and also cruise around the incredible seascape of limestone towers in Halong Bay with its peaks rising directly from the sea.

Burma By Bike: in the words of Kipling: 'this is Burma and it is unlike any land you know about'.
This may be even truer today when we will arrive on two wheels in Bagan, one of Asia's holiest cities, giving you the chance to explore this cultural nerve centre of a country only now emerging from international isolation. Our route takes us through the Shan Highlands, crossing the central plains around Mandalay, and down a fabulous descent from Mt Popa. After all this riding we get a welcome respite, floating down the Irrwaddy River and exploring Inle Lake with its famous floating markets.


Cycling Through Rajasthan: Rajasthan has landscapes varying from green rolling hills to barren deserts. The whole state is dotted with dramatic fortresses, reminders of the Rajputs and their warrior past, while away from the desert the countryside is a patchwork of villages and small towns where we can see the timelessness of rural India.
Cycling is the perfect way to explore, offering a fascinating insight into the traditional way of life here. From Jodhpur our journey takes us first to the beautiful lakeside city of Udaipur, and on to the holy town of Pushkar.
Leaving the desert scenery behind we ride to Jaipur, a town overlooked by the splendid hilltop Amber Palace. We also visit Sariska National Park, beautifully located and home to an abundance of wildlife.
A fitting way to finish the trip is at the magnificent Taj Mahal, one of the new seven wonders of the world.


Cycling The Empire Of Genghis Khan: Mongolia remains a mysterious presence in the heart of Central Asia, a traditional country where visitors are still an unusual sight. Nomads wander the grasslands, setting up their white gers (tents) where the pasture is lush for their horses.
The local people are warm and welcoming and we share their experience of life under a felt or canvas roof.
We follow good trails across wide, open steppe, into expansive mountain scenery and through larch and pine forests. Camping wild under the wide skies adds an adventurous edge to what is certainly one of our most intrepid cycle tours.
We end our riding at Mongolia's ancient capital Karakorum, once the centre of a vast empire. Its ruins and monasteries tell us about the fascinating history of this country and its glorious past.


Somewhat more involved are the following bicycle trips.  For rides at this level, fitness is important. You must have confidence in your own ability and physical condition. They are equivalent to an extended period of cycling at home.


Cycling In Laos & Northern Vietnam: Laos, the land of a million elephants, is now the land of a million smiles, with stunning mountainous landscape and a laid back atmosphere, the result of a long isolation from its neighbours.
Our route takes us through some spectacular scenery, from narrow roads shaded by jungle vines to shimmering rice paddies and mountains which are home to a mix of ethnic groups.
Out of the saddle, we walk through villages and bamboo forest and visit Luang Prabang, one of Asia's most attractive towns, with colonial buildings, tree-lined avenues and colourful temples.
The Plain of Jars is one of Southeast Asia's most important archaeological sites, but one with more questions than answers. Located in one the most heavily bombed places on earth it is steeped in wartime history. We also visit the Vietnamese capital Hanoi and finish our trip in bustling Bangkok.
The cycling is demanding at times, but our reward is to have roads almost to ourselves in South East Asia's friendliest and least known country.


Cycle Southern India - Coast To Coast: The two southernmost states of Tamil Nadu and Kerala perfectly depict the contrasting nature of India. Seeing them on two wheels gives us an excellent opportunity to soak up the rich culture and appreciate the different landscapes as we cycle by.
Tamil Nadu sees far fewer visitors than other Indian states, but this is part of the attraction as we follow quiet backroads from the fertile coastal plains in the east to the remarkable hills of the Western Ghats which form the border with Kerala.
Our ride takes us past some of the most impressive sites of southern India, including the former French colony of Pondicherry and the magnificent Meenakshi Temple at Madurai.
After cycling through the cooler highlands and tea estates of the Western Ghats we reach the tranquil backwaters of Kerala, where a relaxing houseboat cruise offers the chance to unwind and reflect on a memorable journey.

Kerala & Tropical India: Southern India is a magical place: beautiful landscapes, fascinating towns and villages, long white beaches and superb food, an excellent place to explore by bike.
In the cool heights of the Western Ghats the sanctuaries at Bandipur and Mudumalai hide wild elephants, tigers and leopards in jungle and bamboo forests. We cycle round old forts and up to religious rock shrines as well as through colourful villages where rural life has remained little-changed for centuries.
Further south, in Kerala, Hinduism has produced some of India's most elaborately decorated temples. A relaxing boat trip on the quiet backwaters here offers a change of pace from the bicycles, before the final coastal ride to Varkala and a chance to laze on the beach and reflect on an unforgettable experience of rural India.


Cycle The Backroads Of Sri Lanka: Although a compact island, Sri Lanka is incredibly diverse. Exploring on two wheels is the best way to see this rural country and to experience the way of life of its friendly people.
Beginning our journey in its region of ancient cities, we travel along the old King's Route, created more than 1000 years ago. Here we stop to climb the impressive 'Lion's Rock' fortress at Sigiriya and explore the cave temples at Dambulla.
We visit Kandy before riding through the tea estates of Nuwara Eliya in the Central Highlands where the cooler temperatures and lush scenery make for a relaxing ride. In the south we visit Yala National Park where there are leopards, elephants and an abundance of colourful birdlife, before ending the trip on the beaches of Sri Lanka's beautiful south coast.
This trip covers a substantial part of the island, taking in as much as possible of the scenic and cultural variety that Sri Lanka has to offer. Most of the route is a continuous ride, and transfers are kept to a minimum.

Cycling in Mongolia - photo Exodus

Challenging Bicyle Trips in Asia

In an earlier post I wrote about our most popular bicycle trips in Asia.  Here is our line-up of trips which require a high level of fitness.

At this level previous experience of the cycling style or surface is a must. These routes have long cycling days and tougher terrain on both road and off-road trips. You need complete confidence in your fitness and technical ability to cope with difficult or steep terrain, rough surfaces and longer distances. Ideal for those seeking a challenge!


Lhasa To Kathmandu Ride: an epic ride across 'the forbidden land', taking in Kathmandu and Lhasa, the north face of Everest, 5000m+ passes, and an unrivalled 4000m descent into Nepal!
Tibet, protected by the great Himalayan chain to the south and west, and by the even more inhospitable mountains to the north and east, has haunted the ambition of explorers for centuries.
The allure is as high as the altitude, and for the adventurous cyclist this land of rugged beauty, vast landscapes, brilliant skies and glittering peaks offers one of the ultimate biking challenges.
After some essential time acclimatising around Kathmandu and Lhasa, our route takes us across high altitude desert, over awesome mountain passes, stopping off at Rongbuk Monastery and Base Camp for views of the north face of Everest, before making the 160km, 4600m descent into Nepal and the lush Kathmandu Valley.
In recent years much of the route has been surfaced making it perfect for cycling. A tough trip, but for those who venture to the spectacular beauty of Tibet, the sense of achievement is guaranteed.


Manali To Leh Ride: closed to the world for centuries, Ladakh lies high in an almost inaccessible region of the western Himalaya, close to the borders of China and Tibet.
This unique region, home to traditional Tibetan Buddhism, is the scene for one of cycling's epic journeys, crossing two of the highest passes in the world! Over the course of the ride the scenery changes from verdant deodar forests and flower-filled valleys to barren lunar landscapes with towering peaks and hanging glaciers.
As well as the spectacular surroundings, the rich culture of the Ladakhis is also a highlight and as our route weaves its way across the Himalaya we can see monasteries majestically perched on high spurs, and cycle off to explore little-visited areas, enjoying the tranquility and beauty of a genuinely untouched land.


Mountains, Temples And Hill Stations Ride: India is a country of enormous cultural diversity, particularly in the north where the vast Gangetic Plain meets the Himalaya, and there is no better way to appreciate this than by bike.
The trip starts in Amritsar, home of the Sikh religion and the incredible Golden Temple, before proceeding to India's first heritage village of Pragpur where we start our cycling.
We ride to Mcleod Ganj, home of the Dalai Lama, then continue towards Kulu, sometimes known as the 'end of the habitable world', passing numerous historic temples in the foothills of the Pir Panchal Himalaya.
The route is designed to take in the spectacular scenery of the mighty Himalaya without having to actually cycle too many enormous climbs, but your efforts will always be rewarded with truly memorable views!
The last few days take us to Shimla, the most popular hill station of the British Raj where there is time to relax and ride the famous 'Toy Train' before returning to Delhi.

Lake reflection in front of Everest's North Face - photo Exodus

Highlights of North India

India is a daunting destination for many, but ultimately one of the most rewarding travel experiences you will ever have.  For their first trip, most people will travel around the north.  Here is a summary of the highlights of North India.

For a map and photos, see my Pinterest site.  For actual experiences, see my other post, unique experiences in North India.

Delhi, India's capital is an exciting, busy, and often chaotic city but it's also one of the most interesting in the world with historical sites from different eras, museums and galleries, shops and endless bazaars!
There are plenty of things to see and do. Visit the World Heritage-listed Mughal masterpiece of Humayun's Tomb. This was the first garden tomb in India, built way back in 1570. Wonder at the tall brick minaret of Qutub Minar, which was started back in the 1100s. Explore the mighty Red Fort of Delhi. Part palace and part fort, it plays an integral part in the history of the city with former residents ranging from royal families to British soldiers.
Set off on the city's modern metro system, then get a taste of India's famed public transport with a cycle rickshaw ride through chaotic streets, such as the famous Chandni Chowk. Make a visit to the Jama Masjid, Delhi's oldest mosque and one of its most impressive buildings, then visit the Sheeshganj Gurudwara (Sikh Temple) to learn about the Sikh religion.
See my post about experiences in North India for a great place to shop in Delhi.

The ultimate destination for all Hindu pilgrims, Varanasi is full of temples, shrines and devotees. It may not be one of the world's cleanest cities but there is no doubt it is one of the world's most amazing.
Spend the evening soaking up the magical atmosphere of a candle flower ceremony, serenaded by traditional musicians on a Ganges river cruise as the sun sets.
Visit the Ram Nagar Fort which lies about 14 km from Varanasi on the opposite bank of River Ganga. Built by Maharaja Balwant Singh in the 18th century, it's the ancestral home of the Maharaja of Banaras.
See my post about experiences in North India for an early morning boat ride on the Ganges and sleeper trains, which are often used between Delhi, Varanasi and Agra.

Bandhavgarh National Park is truly one of India's most magnificent wildernesses with a relative abundance of tigers compared to other national parks, so your chances of spotting some are high.  There is plenty of wildlife that lives in these forests, so even if you don't see a tiger, you could see wild boars, jackals, nilgais, sambars or porcupines.

Far from any major population centres, modern or historical, Khajuraho's remote location saved its stunning 1,000-year-old temples - infamous for their explicit carvings depicting the entire Kama Sutra - from destruction by foreign invaders.
Khajuraho's 'Kama Sutra' Temples were all built during the Chandela Dynasty 1,000 years ago, most within a 100 to 150-year time frame. These temples have baffled foreigners and Indians alike since their rediscovery by the British in the late 19th century. What they were built for and what the delicate and erotic carvings mean is open to wide interpretation.

Agra Fort on the banks of the Yamuna River was built in 1565 by Emperor Akbar. It was converted to a palace in Emperor Shah Jahan's time and eventually became his prison after he lost power in 1658.
At sunrise or sunset visit the Taj Mahal - a masterpiece of shimmering white marble set amid beautiful formal gardens. Built by Emperor Shah Jahan as a memorial to his wife Mumtaz, this 'teardrop on the face of eternity' (as it was described by Rabindranath Tagore) lives up to all expectations.

The magnificent deserted Mughal city of Fatehpur Sikri was built by Emperor Akbar in 1569, but was abandoned after 15 years due to the scarcity of water. A highlight of the settlement is Jama Masjid, a striking mosque featuring elements of both Persian and Hindu design. The main entrance of the mosque is the impressive 54-metre high Buland Darwaza, the Gate of Victory, constructed to commemorate Akbar's military victory in Gujarat.

A friendly, busy town crammed with palaces and bazaars full of jewellery, textiles and folk-based arts, Jaipur is a firm favourite with travellers.
Make a stop at India's most photographed building after the Taj Mahal, the Hawa Mahal or 'Palace of the Winds'.
Take a walk to the city's crowded and colourful bazaars, which sell a wide variety of artisan goods. Semi-precious stones are the local speciality - be sure to wander by the stalls at least once.
Go to Jaipur's Royal City Palace - one of India's finest - and spend time exploring the various rooms and apartments.
Visit one of the five astronomical observatories built by Maharaja Jai Singh, the founder of Jaipur.  Be sure to stop at the old capital of Amber and explore the hilltop fort complex known as the Amber Palace.
See my post about experiences in North India for  a great place to see a Bollywood Blockbuster.

One of the biggest and most renowned national parks in northern India, Ranthambhore was once a famous hunting ground for the Maharajas of Jaipur - today it's a major wildlife tourist attraction.
Take 4WD safari vehicles and go searching for tigers and other wildlife inside the park.
Explore Ranthambhore Fort. Founded in 944, few of the buildings inside have survived the ravages of war and time, but among the remaining ruins, two pavilions - Badal Mahal and Hammirs Court - give an idea of its old grandeur.

See my post about experiences in North India for village and heritage stays in India.

Udaipur undoubtedly lives up to its reputation as India's most romantic city. Rolling hills, white marble palaces and lakes come together appealingly and it's a centre for artists, dancers and musicians. The shopping is also superb, with miniature paintings being the speciality.
Visit City Palace, one of the largest royal palaces in India, and check out the unbelievable treasures within - from vivid murals to antiques and royal utensils.
Enjoy a boat ride on the famous Lake Pichola and see marvels like the Lake Palace and Jag Mandir Island.
See my post about experiences in North India for  musical concerts in Udaipur.

Pushkar is one of the India's holiest places. It's also a market centre for many of the local village people and a great place to sit back and relax.
Head out to explore Pushkar's main bazaar and many sidestreets - some great bargains can be had, as some of the cheapest clothes and jewellery in northern India can be found here. Walk around the lake, with its bustling ghats and temples, to watch the devout as they worship at the holy waters. Visit the only Brahma Temple in India.
Take a camel ride out into the local desert area. For those who don't want to ride a camel, there's a camel cart option.
Early risers can make the sunrise hike up the hill to the Savitri Temple for magical views over the town. There could also be a wonderful steaming glass of chai waiting for you if the chai man is there - certainly well worth the trek.
See my post about experiences in North India for the annual Pushkar camel fair.

The city of Jaisalmer is one of the old Rajasthan capitals, dominated by the old fort with a commanding view over the Thar Desert. Built of beautiful yellow sandstone, the fort's walls are a tawny beige colour during the day, fading to honey-gold as the sun sets. The monumental walls are ornately designed with imposing parapets and towers at every turn, covered in intricate stonework - and in the old town the havelis (houses of once important Jaisalmer families) look like small palaces with façades covered in fine carvings and highly decorated balconies.
See my post about experiences in North India for camel safaris in to the desert.

Jodhpur, situated on the edge of the Thar Desert, is affectionately known as "the blue city" because of the many indigo coloured houses in the old town. These are best seen from the ramparts of the mighty Meherangarth Fortress, which looms above the bustling city.  Be sure to take the audio tour here, narrated by none less than Roger Moore.
Elsewhere in the city, Nai Sadak is the place to head for shopping, lined with shoe and sari shops, or check out Sardar Market, a riot of sights, sounds and smells that's a baffling assault on the senses. Nearby are the historical sites of Jaswant Thada, built at the end of the 19th century and constructed entirely out of sheets of marble; and Mandore, the ancient capital of Marwar.

Praying in the Ganges in Varanasi