Sri Lanka articles

Here are some great articles relating to travel in Sri Lanka.


Active & adventure
Asia's new adrenaline capital


Ancient sites & history
A temple where selfies are verboten
Sri Lanka's architectural treasures


East coast
Riding Sri Lanka's new wave
Exploring the East Coast


Food & drink
Sri Lanka's foodie paradise
Street Food Finds in Sri Lanka
The Strange-Looking Sri Lankan Souvenir All Foodies Will Love






Highlands
Getting to the heart of Sri Lanka
Asia's new adrenaline capital

8 highlights of Sri Lanka's Hill Country
Elephant diaries: walking and wildlife in Sri Lanka


Jaffna & the North
Sri Lanka's Northern Soul


Travel & photography
The best of Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka photos
Sri Lanka: The Hills of Serendipity
In Sri Lanka, Barriers Fall in a Land Marred by Bloodshed


Wildlife & Conservation
A safe haven for sea turtles?
Sri Lanka's best wildlife national parks
Leopard spotting in Yala NP, Sri Lanka
Elephant diaries: walking and wildlife in Sri Lanka

India Articles

Here are some great articles relating to travelling in India.


Delhi
Delhi City Guide


Himalaya & foothills
Finding Nirvana in India
Mountain Railways of India - World Heritage Guide
Steeped in Darjeeling
Risikesh - Here comes the Sun
Nagaland Unbound - Going head to head


Kerala & the south
Rich pickings in Kerala 
India's mysterious glowing forests
36 Hours in Hyderabad


Mumbai
Mumbai City Guide


Rajasthan

Scenes of India, From a Fort and a Camel
Desert tracks: exploring the hidden corners of Rajasthan
Tigers in Ranthambore 
Taj Mahal - World Heritage Guide


Tigers
How to watch tigers
Tigers in Ranthambore


Varanasi
A night on the Ganges
Ultimate top 5 guide: Varanasi
Captivated by the Ganges, a River of Souls

Highlights of Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is famous for its exquisite beaches, but behind the dazzling coastline there is a lush interior  with thick jungles, vast palm and rice plantations, cut by spectacular waterfalls and wild rivers.  In addition, there is a long and interesting history, ancient Buddhist temples, spectacular vistas, spice gardens and rich wildlife and above all, a laid-back atmosphere, friendly people and some wonderful food.  The best time to go to Sri Lanka are from December to March for the west coast, the south coast and the Hill Country, and from April to September for the ancient cities region and the east coast.  Read on to learn more about the highlights of Sri Lanka. 

Sri Lanka is affected by two monsoons.  As the south and west coasts and the highlands are by far the wettest, the dry season here, December to March, is considered the best time to visit Sri Lanka.  For the ancient city region and the east coast, April to September is the best.  April and September offer the best odds for good weather across the country.

Most people start their journey through Sri Lanka in Negombo, an historically interesting town and a great place to get into the spirit of seaside of Sri Lanka by observing the fishermen at work, watch them auction off their catch and try some fresh seafood in a local restaurant.  Around the town is a network of canals and you can get a good sense of rural Sri Lanka but venturing out by bicycle. 

The ancient city of Anuradhapura, built in the 3rd century BC, was the capital of the Sinhalese people for 1000 years and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.  It is still the most important historic site in Sri Lanka, with a treasure trove of palaces, temples and Buddhist monuments and statues.  One of the most important pilgrimage sites for Bhuddists here is the Bodhi tree, said to be a direct descendant of the tree where Buddha gained enlightenment.

At Ritigala Mountain you will find the ruins of a monastic complex, lesser known but excellent nevertheless.  Much of the site has been restored helping you imagine the grandeur of the place.

Trincomalee, a beautiful village on the east coast, is worth a sidetrip.  Explore the Temple of a Thousand Pillars and Fort Frederick or mingle with pilgrims at the famous Hot Springs of Kanniya.  The coast of Trincomalee is well known to be a migratory route for Blue Whales and Sperm Whales, while the countryside around town makes for a great place to get out by bike.

Before reaching Polonnaruwa, you may want to engage in a journey through authentic Sri Lankan villages, to spot wildlife, cross streams, meet villagers busy in their day-to-day life and perhaps sample a local meal.   At Polonnaruwa itself there are some beautiful temples, palaces and stupas, but the highlights are the enormous stone Buddhas. 

Next, visit the Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka's largest Rock Cave Temple located high up in a stone cliff face.  It is home to magnificent Buddha images and rock paintings spread over five caves.

One of the highlights of any visit to Sri Lanka is the food.  Although Sri Lankan cuisine has been being influenced by the traditions of India, Portugal, Arabia and Holland, it has a style uniquely its own.  Enjoy complex, fragrant curries, indulge in seafood on the coast, discover street food like hoppers, paratha and roti, or discover Tamil cuisine in the Highlands.

Built as a royal citadel on top of a 200m high rock mass, Sigiriya is an impressive fortress.  You climb to the top via a series of steps and walkways.  Enjoy lovely water gardens and 5th-century frescoes and the remains of a summer palace.

Nearby Minneriya National Park is home to a variety of fauna, including purple-faced langur and toque macaque.  Elephants use it regularly as a watering site and there is a huge variety of birdlife.

The royal city of Kandy is pleasantly set on the edge of a lake surrounded by hills. In the heart of town is the Temple of the Tooth, the most important shrine in Sri Lanka, which houses a relic of a tooth of Buddha taken from his funeral pyre.  Each evening, the day's worship culminates with the casket containing the tooth relic being put on display to pilgrims from all over the Buddhist world.  Be sure to visit the magnificent Peradeniya Botanical Gardens, with their immense fig tree and exquisite orchid collection.  Alternatively, go for a walk around town and enjoy the bazaars, visit monasteries or see an evening performance of the famed Kandyan dancers and fire-walkers.

In the highlands of Sri Lanka there are a range of things you can do.  Go white water rafting or hike to waterfalls, visit a tea plantation or spice garden, swim in refreshing mountain streams, explore the quaint countryside town of Nuwara Eliya, go for a jeep safari at Uda Walawe National Park, visit World's End', one of the most stunning sights in Sri Lanka where the ground drops 1050m to the plains, or take a stunning train journey into the highlands disembarking at Bandarawela or Haputale.

Further south you reach Yala National Park, home to deer, elephants, bears, crocodiles, wild boars and birdlife. The park also has one of the highest densities of leopards in the world.

After having done this much travelling, it is time for some serious R&R.  The beautiful south coast with long sandy beaches and lovely calm waters, is perfect for swimming.  Base yourself in Marissa or Tangalle and if you feel like more exploring, go whale watching, visit Unawatuna with its famed stilt fishermen, check out a seafood market or try a drink made from palm tree sap (toddy) or coconut arrack.

Before heading back to Colombo, visit the colonial port town of Galle, home to an impressive World Heritage-listed Dutch fort with extensive walls and many interesting old buildings. Walk around the fort and watch the sunset from the ramparts, or while having dinner. Alternatively, explore the maze of backstreets and market stalls in town.

Related posts:
Sri Lanka Photo board on Pinterest
Why we do not ride elephants
Highlights of South India
Best Cycling trips in Asia

Why we do not ride elephants

We are happy to share with you we will no longer offer elephant rides to travellers.

Seeing wild animals on holiday should be a once in a lifetime experience. But the demand for elephant rides, lion and tiger selfies and more is forcing iconic wild animals into a lifetime of misery. Sadly it is these iconic animals that often suffer the most at the hands of a cruel and relentless industry.

More than 2,000 elephants are trapped at cruel tourist attractions where they are undergoing great physical and mental trauma to be forced into interacting with people.  Watch this animation and learn about their lives as entertainers.

Our decision is based on an extensive research project by experts from Canadian animal charity WSPA to assess the welfare of captive elephants (and other wildlife) at entertainment venues in Asia and Africa.

Asian elephants are highly endangered and tourism demand has led to the establishment of venues where elephants are forced to do unnatural performances. The demand from travellers is adding to the number of endangered elephants being poached from the wild.

In both Asia and Africa animals are taken from their mothers, their spirit is broken, and they endure cruel and stressful ‘training’ to make them tolerate being ridden.

Clearly this is not something anyone will want to be involved in.

With your help we can stop these cruel practices.

Elephants are best seen in the wild, like here in Periyar, India

Highlights of South India

South India is a land of temples, colonials towns, beautiful beaches, tea plantations and palm trees.  More laid-back than the north of India, the south is a great place to get acquainted to India, or get some R&R.  Here are all the highlights of South India.  You can see images and a map on my Pinterest site.

Cycling is a great way to explore the country side, or join a small group tour to discover larger areas.


Set on the Malabar, or 'Pepper Coast', Cochin (Kochi) is one of South India's most interesting towns and is believed to have been the first European settlement in India.  It has a relaxed atmosphere and is famous for its Chinese fishing nets. Discover the old Mattancherry Palace, the synagogue with its hand painted 18th century blue ceramic floor tiles and St Francis Church where Vasco de Gama died in 1524.

The journey up to Coonoor is one of the most scenic in South India with superb views of the plains below. Don't forget to take the narrow gauge steam Blue Mountain Railway from Coonoor to Ootacamund, a delightful one-hour train journey.

Ootacamund, or 'Snooty Ooty' was a refuge for British Officials and tea planters in Southern India as the climate this high up is much cooler.   Views from peaks, pleasant forest walks and the beautiful botanical gardens are the highlights of this area.

On the beautiful drive down the hills towards Mysore you may spot deer, elephant and monkeys.  Mysore, a former capital, is a city of royal palaces, sandalwood and the manufacture of incense sticks.  Explore the beautifully restored City Palace, with its domes, arches and colonnades of carved pillars and shiny marble floors.  Marvel at the stained glass, wall paintings, ivory inlaid doors and ornate golden throne.
Just outside of Mysore is Srirangapatnam, the capital of Haider Ali and his famous son, Tipu Sultan. Tipu's famous battles against colonization are depicted in the murals on the walls of his summer palace.


Kanchipuram, one of Hinduism's seven most sacred cities, is known as 'the Golden City of a Thousand Temples'.  There are still about 70 temples in the town, including the Ekambaresvara Temple with its Thousand Pillared Hall and the Kailasanatha Temple, considered to be the most beautiful of the town.

On the Coromandel Coast, visit the rock cut caves and temples at Mahabalipuram, occupying a stunning position on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea. There are plenty of cave temples, rock-carved shrines and sculptured rock panels all dating back to the 7th century.

Pondicherry enjoys a hint of its French colonial atmosphere in the grid pattern streets, distinctive police uniforms and the occasional colonial building.  But if colonial charm is what you are after, Cochin is the place you want to be.

Thanjavur is famous for the Thanjavur Brihadisvara Temple, one of the great monuments of southern India.  It is built mainly from granite and has outstanding inscriptions and sculptures of Shiva, Vishnu and Durga.  Here you can also visit a beautiful 16th century palace which houses a huge library as well as the Rajaraja Museum with a collection of magnificent Chola bronzes.

Life revolves around the Meenakshi Temple in the bustling city of Madurai.  It is a hive of activity and the scene of an almost continuous religious festival.  One of the most spectacular parts of the complex is the 16th century Thousand Pillared Hall with exquisitely carved columns and its sculptured ceiling,

Periyar National Park is known for its elephants, sambar, wild boar and barking deer.  Don't expect wildlife sightings as you would in Africa, but you can enjoy a jungle walk or boat cruise or go on a tour of the spice gardens. Coffee, tea, rubber, cardamom and pepper are just some of the local produce.

Traditional wooden boats were the method of transport for hundreds of years in Kerala and a houseboat cruise in the Kerala Backwaters is the highlight of many a South India trip.  As your boat meanders through canals and waterways lined with lush tropical vegetation you will enjoy the scenery, watch locals travel by boat or spot some of the prolific bird life.  Don't forget to step ashore to get an insight into traditional village life. 

A typical trip through South India will end in Kovalam or Varkala.  Enjoy the idyllic soft sandy beaches, warm clear waters and wide views of the ocean horizon that these seaside has to offer.  It makes for a great end to any highlights trip through South India!

Meenakshi Temple, Madurai

Best cycling trips in Asia

Cycling is one of the best ways to see a country.  You are outside all day and can stop at will to explore a market or village, eat a local meal, visit a museum, castle or temple or admire a view.  In many places in Asia the bicycle is the preferred mode of transport of many local people.  So let's join them and explore Asia on two wheels!

The trips listed below are for people who enjoy a weekend riding on either trails or roads at home will enjoy these trips. You need to be in good health and reasonably fit. Ideal for occasional cyclists, or as a more relaxed trip for fitter riders.  Distances on road trips rarely exceed 70 kms (43 miles) per day.


If you are looking for cycling trips which require a higher level of fitness, go to the blog post Challenging Bicycle Trips in Asia.

Cycle Indochina & Angkor: this journey takes us across three countries with contrasting recent histories and subtly different cultures. From the busy streets of Bangkok we make straight for the rolling limestone hills of Thailand's largest national park, Khao Yai.
Moving into Cambodia we head through shimmering paddy fields to Angkor, the magnificent temple and city complex at the centre of the former Khmer Empire and one of the world's great historic sites. We reach Phnom Penh, where we encounter stark reminders of Cambodia's more recent past.
Arriving in Vietnam, we enter the Mekong Delta, a criss-crossed patchwork of rice paddies and waterways, the so-called 'rice bowl of Vietnam'.
We complete our journey in the vibrant city of Saigon where the frenetic pace contrasts with some of the rural areas we have cycled through.

Cycling Vietnam: this superb trip combines some of the best cycling routes in Vietnam with time for rest and exploration.  Travelling on two wheels gets us closer to life in Vietnam and to the outgoing and welcoming Vietnamese who share our love affair with the bicycle. Over-laden bicycles and motorbikes typify Vietnamese life and passing encounters with local cyclists may leave us with some of our strongest memories.
Vietnam is a beautiful country, with a long coastline of broad, sandy beaches, shimmering paddy fields and mountains cloaked in forests. Our route takes us from the vibrant streets of Saigon northwards to the more conservative capital Hanoi.
Out of the saddle we have time to relax in the lively beachside town of Nha Trang, enjoy the laid-back atmosphere and great shopping of Hoi An with its wooden merchant houses, pagodas, bustling market crowded with conical hats and women in the bright colours of their national dress, and also cruise around the incredible seascape of limestone towers in Halong Bay with its peaks rising directly from the sea.

Burma By Bike: in the words of Kipling: 'this is Burma and it is unlike any land you know about'.
This may be even truer today when we will arrive on two wheels in Bagan, one of Asia's holiest cities, giving you the chance to explore this cultural nerve centre of a country only now emerging from international isolation. Our route takes us through the Shan Highlands, crossing the central plains around Mandalay, and down a fabulous descent from Mt Popa. After all this riding we get a welcome respite, floating down the Irrwaddy River and exploring Inle Lake with its famous floating markets.


Cycling Through Rajasthan: Rajasthan has landscapes varying from green rolling hills to barren deserts. The whole state is dotted with dramatic fortresses, reminders of the Rajputs and their warrior past, while away from the desert the countryside is a patchwork of villages and small towns where we can see the timelessness of rural India.
Cycling is the perfect way to explore, offering a fascinating insight into the traditional way of life here. From Jodhpur our journey takes us first to the beautiful lakeside city of Udaipur, and on to the holy town of Pushkar.
Leaving the desert scenery behind we ride to Jaipur, a town overlooked by the splendid hilltop Amber Palace. We also visit Sariska National Park, beautifully located and home to an abundance of wildlife.
A fitting way to finish the trip is at the magnificent Taj Mahal, one of the new seven wonders of the world.


Cycling The Empire Of Genghis Khan: Mongolia remains a mysterious presence in the heart of Central Asia, a traditional country where visitors are still an unusual sight. Nomads wander the grasslands, setting up their white gers (tents) where the pasture is lush for their horses.
The local people are warm and welcoming and we share their experience of life under a felt or canvas roof.
We follow good trails across wide, open steppe, into expansive mountain scenery and through larch and pine forests. Camping wild under the wide skies adds an adventurous edge to what is certainly one of our most intrepid cycle tours.
We end our riding at Mongolia's ancient capital Karakorum, once the centre of a vast empire. Its ruins and monasteries tell us about the fascinating history of this country and its glorious past.


Somewhat more involved are the following bicycle trips.  For rides at this level, fitness is important. You must have confidence in your own ability and physical condition. They are equivalent to an extended period of cycling at home.


Cycling In Laos & Northern Vietnam: Laos, the land of a million elephants, is now the land of a million smiles, with stunning mountainous landscape and a laid back atmosphere, the result of a long isolation from its neighbours.
Our route takes us through some spectacular scenery, from narrow roads shaded by jungle vines to shimmering rice paddies and mountains which are home to a mix of ethnic groups.
Out of the saddle, we walk through villages and bamboo forest and visit Luang Prabang, one of Asia's most attractive towns, with colonial buildings, tree-lined avenues and colourful temples.
The Plain of Jars is one of Southeast Asia's most important archaeological sites, but one with more questions than answers. Located in one the most heavily bombed places on earth it is steeped in wartime history. We also visit the Vietnamese capital Hanoi and finish our trip in bustling Bangkok.
The cycling is demanding at times, but our reward is to have roads almost to ourselves in South East Asia's friendliest and least known country.


Cycle Southern India - Coast To Coast: The two southernmost states of Tamil Nadu and Kerala perfectly depict the contrasting nature of India. Seeing them on two wheels gives us an excellent opportunity to soak up the rich culture and appreciate the different landscapes as we cycle by.
Tamil Nadu sees far fewer visitors than other Indian states, but this is part of the attraction as we follow quiet backroads from the fertile coastal plains in the east to the remarkable hills of the Western Ghats which form the border with Kerala.
Our ride takes us past some of the most impressive sites of southern India, including the former French colony of Pondicherry and the magnificent Meenakshi Temple at Madurai.
After cycling through the cooler highlands and tea estates of the Western Ghats we reach the tranquil backwaters of Kerala, where a relaxing houseboat cruise offers the chance to unwind and reflect on a memorable journey.

Kerala & Tropical India: Southern India is a magical place: beautiful landscapes, fascinating towns and villages, long white beaches and superb food, an excellent place to explore by bike.
In the cool heights of the Western Ghats the sanctuaries at Bandipur and Mudumalai hide wild elephants, tigers and leopards in jungle and bamboo forests. We cycle round old forts and up to religious rock shrines as well as through colourful villages where rural life has remained little-changed for centuries.
Further south, in Kerala, Hinduism has produced some of India's most elaborately decorated temples. A relaxing boat trip on the quiet backwaters here offers a change of pace from the bicycles, before the final coastal ride to Varkala and a chance to laze on the beach and reflect on an unforgettable experience of rural India.


Cycle The Backroads Of Sri Lanka: Although a compact island, Sri Lanka is incredibly diverse. Exploring on two wheels is the best way to see this rural country and to experience the way of life of its friendly people.
Beginning our journey in its region of ancient cities, we travel along the old King's Route, created more than 1000 years ago. Here we stop to climb the impressive 'Lion's Rock' fortress at Sigiriya and explore the cave temples at Dambulla.
We visit Kandy before riding through the tea estates of Nuwara Eliya in the Central Highlands where the cooler temperatures and lush scenery make for a relaxing ride. In the south we visit Yala National Park where there are leopards, elephants and an abundance of colourful birdlife, before ending the trip on the beaches of Sri Lanka's beautiful south coast.
This trip covers a substantial part of the island, taking in as much as possible of the scenic and cultural variety that Sri Lanka has to offer. Most of the route is a continuous ride, and transfers are kept to a minimum.

Cycling in Mongolia - photo Exodus

Challenging Bicyle Trips in Asia

In an earlier post I wrote about our most popular bicycle trips in Asia.  Here is our line-up of trips which require a high level of fitness.

At this level previous experience of the cycling style or surface is a must. These routes have long cycling days and tougher terrain on both road and off-road trips. You need complete confidence in your fitness and technical ability to cope with difficult or steep terrain, rough surfaces and longer distances. Ideal for those seeking a challenge!


Lhasa To Kathmandu Ride: an epic ride across 'the forbidden land', taking in Kathmandu and Lhasa, the north face of Everest, 5000m+ passes, and an unrivalled 4000m descent into Nepal!
Tibet, protected by the great Himalayan chain to the south and west, and by the even more inhospitable mountains to the north and east, has haunted the ambition of explorers for centuries.
The allure is as high as the altitude, and for the adventurous cyclist this land of rugged beauty, vast landscapes, brilliant skies and glittering peaks offers one of the ultimate biking challenges.
After some essential time acclimatising around Kathmandu and Lhasa, our route takes us across high altitude desert, over awesome mountain passes, stopping off at Rongbuk Monastery and Base Camp for views of the north face of Everest, before making the 160km, 4600m descent into Nepal and the lush Kathmandu Valley.
In recent years much of the route has been surfaced making it perfect for cycling. A tough trip, but for those who venture to the spectacular beauty of Tibet, the sense of achievement is guaranteed.


Manali To Leh Ride: closed to the world for centuries, Ladakh lies high in an almost inaccessible region of the western Himalaya, close to the borders of China and Tibet.
This unique region, home to traditional Tibetan Buddhism, is the scene for one of cycling's epic journeys, crossing two of the highest passes in the world! Over the course of the ride the scenery changes from verdant deodar forests and flower-filled valleys to barren lunar landscapes with towering peaks and hanging glaciers.
As well as the spectacular surroundings, the rich culture of the Ladakhis is also a highlight and as our route weaves its way across the Himalaya we can see monasteries majestically perched on high spurs, and cycle off to explore little-visited areas, enjoying the tranquility and beauty of a genuinely untouched land.


Mountains, Temples And Hill Stations Ride: India is a country of enormous cultural diversity, particularly in the north where the vast Gangetic Plain meets the Himalaya, and there is no better way to appreciate this than by bike.
The trip starts in Amritsar, home of the Sikh religion and the incredible Golden Temple, before proceeding to India's first heritage village of Pragpur where we start our cycling.
We ride to Mcleod Ganj, home of the Dalai Lama, then continue towards Kulu, sometimes known as the 'end of the habitable world', passing numerous historic temples in the foothills of the Pir Panchal Himalaya.
The route is designed to take in the spectacular scenery of the mighty Himalaya without having to actually cycle too many enormous climbs, but your efforts will always be rewarded with truly memorable views!
The last few days take us to Shimla, the most popular hill station of the British Raj where there is time to relax and ride the famous 'Toy Train' before returning to Delhi.

Lake reflection in front of Everest's North Face - photo Exodus

Highlights of North India

India is a daunting destination for many, but ultimately one of the most rewarding travel experiences you will ever have.  For their first trip, most people will travel around the north.  Here is a summary of the highlights of North India.

For a map and photos, see my Pinterest site.  For actual experiences, see my other post, unique experiences in North India.

Delhi, India's capital is an exciting, busy, and often chaotic city but it's also one of the most interesting in the world with historical sites from different eras, museums and galleries, shops and endless bazaars!
There are plenty of things to see and do. Visit the World Heritage-listed Mughal masterpiece of Humayun's Tomb. This was the first garden tomb in India, built way back in 1570. Wonder at the tall brick minaret of Qutub Minar, which was started back in the 1100s. Explore the mighty Red Fort of Delhi. Part palace and part fort, it plays an integral part in the history of the city with former residents ranging from royal families to British soldiers.
Set off on the city's modern metro system, then get a taste of India's famed public transport with a cycle rickshaw ride through chaotic streets, such as the famous Chandni Chowk. Make a visit to the Jama Masjid, Delhi's oldest mosque and one of its most impressive buildings, then visit the Sheeshganj Gurudwara (Sikh Temple) to learn about the Sikh religion.
See my post about experiences in North India for a great place to shop in Delhi.

The ultimate destination for all Hindu pilgrims, Varanasi is full of temples, shrines and devotees. It may not be one of the world's cleanest cities but there is no doubt it is one of the world's most amazing.
Spend the evening soaking up the magical atmosphere of a candle flower ceremony, serenaded by traditional musicians on a Ganges river cruise as the sun sets.
Visit the Ram Nagar Fort which lies about 14 km from Varanasi on the opposite bank of River Ganga. Built by Maharaja Balwant Singh in the 18th century, it's the ancestral home of the Maharaja of Banaras.
See my post about experiences in North India for an early morning boat ride on the Ganges and sleeper trains, which are often used between Delhi, Varanasi and Agra.

Bandhavgarh National Park is truly one of India's most magnificent wildernesses with a relative abundance of tigers compared to other national parks, so your chances of spotting some are high.  There is plenty of wildlife that lives in these forests, so even if you don't see a tiger, you could see wild boars, jackals, nilgais, sambars or porcupines.

Far from any major population centres, modern or historical, Khajuraho's remote location saved its stunning 1,000-year-old temples - infamous for their explicit carvings depicting the entire Kama Sutra - from destruction by foreign invaders.
Khajuraho's 'Kama Sutra' Temples were all built during the Chandela Dynasty 1,000 years ago, most within a 100 to 150-year time frame. These temples have baffled foreigners and Indians alike since their rediscovery by the British in the late 19th century. What they were built for and what the delicate and erotic carvings mean is open to wide interpretation.

Agra Fort on the banks of the Yamuna River was built in 1565 by Emperor Akbar. It was converted to a palace in Emperor Shah Jahan's time and eventually became his prison after he lost power in 1658.
At sunrise or sunset visit the Taj Mahal - a masterpiece of shimmering white marble set amid beautiful formal gardens. Built by Emperor Shah Jahan as a memorial to his wife Mumtaz, this 'teardrop on the face of eternity' (as it was described by Rabindranath Tagore) lives up to all expectations.

The magnificent deserted Mughal city of Fatehpur Sikri was built by Emperor Akbar in 1569, but was abandoned after 15 years due to the scarcity of water. A highlight of the settlement is Jama Masjid, a striking mosque featuring elements of both Persian and Hindu design. The main entrance of the mosque is the impressive 54-metre high Buland Darwaza, the Gate of Victory, constructed to commemorate Akbar's military victory in Gujarat.

A friendly, busy town crammed with palaces and bazaars full of jewellery, textiles and folk-based arts, Jaipur is a firm favourite with travellers.
Make a stop at India's most photographed building after the Taj Mahal, the Hawa Mahal or 'Palace of the Winds'.
Take a walk to the city's crowded and colourful bazaars, which sell a wide variety of artisan goods. Semi-precious stones are the local speciality - be sure to wander by the stalls at least once.
Go to Jaipur's Royal City Palace - one of India's finest - and spend time exploring the various rooms and apartments.
Visit one of the five astronomical observatories built by Maharaja Jai Singh, the founder of Jaipur.  Be sure to stop at the old capital of Amber and explore the hilltop fort complex known as the Amber Palace.
See my post about experiences in North India for  a great place to see a Bollywood Blockbuster.

One of the biggest and most renowned national parks in northern India, Ranthambhore was once a famous hunting ground for the Maharajas of Jaipur - today it's a major wildlife tourist attraction.
Take 4WD safari vehicles and go searching for tigers and other wildlife inside the park.
Explore Ranthambhore Fort. Founded in 944, few of the buildings inside have survived the ravages of war and time, but among the remaining ruins, two pavilions - Badal Mahal and Hammirs Court - give an idea of its old grandeur.

See my post about experiences in North India for village and heritage stays in India.

Udaipur undoubtedly lives up to its reputation as India's most romantic city. Rolling hills, white marble palaces and lakes come together appealingly and it's a centre for artists, dancers and musicians. The shopping is also superb, with miniature paintings being the speciality.
Visit City Palace, one of the largest royal palaces in India, and check out the unbelievable treasures within - from vivid murals to antiques and royal utensils.
Enjoy a boat ride on the famous Lake Pichola and see marvels like the Lake Palace and Jag Mandir Island.
See my post about experiences in North India for  musical concerts in Udaipur.

Pushkar is one of the India's holiest places. It's also a market centre for many of the local village people and a great place to sit back and relax.
Head out to explore Pushkar's main bazaar and many sidestreets - some great bargains can be had, as some of the cheapest clothes and jewellery in northern India can be found here. Walk around the lake, with its bustling ghats and temples, to watch the devout as they worship at the holy waters. Visit the only Brahma Temple in India.
Take a camel ride out into the local desert area. For those who don't want to ride a camel, there's a camel cart option.
Early risers can make the sunrise hike up the hill to the Savitri Temple for magical views over the town. There could also be a wonderful steaming glass of chai waiting for you if the chai man is there - certainly well worth the trek.
See my post about experiences in North India for the annual Pushkar camel fair.

The city of Jaisalmer is one of the old Rajasthan capitals, dominated by the old fort with a commanding view over the Thar Desert. Built of beautiful yellow sandstone, the fort's walls are a tawny beige colour during the day, fading to honey-gold as the sun sets. The monumental walls are ornately designed with imposing parapets and towers at every turn, covered in intricate stonework - and in the old town the havelis (houses of once important Jaisalmer families) look like small palaces with façades covered in fine carvings and highly decorated balconies.
See my post about experiences in North India for camel safaris in to the desert.

Jodhpur, situated on the edge of the Thar Desert, is affectionately known as "the blue city" because of the many indigo coloured houses in the old town. These are best seen from the ramparts of the mighty Meherangarth Fortress, which looms above the bustling city.  Be sure to take the audio tour here, narrated by none less than Roger Moore.
Elsewhere in the city, Nai Sadak is the place to head for shopping, lined with shoe and sari shops, or check out Sardar Market, a riot of sights, sounds and smells that's a baffling assault on the senses. Nearby are the historical sites of Jaswant Thada, built at the end of the 19th century and constructed entirely out of sheets of marble; and Mandore, the ancient capital of Marwar.

Praying in the Ganges in Varanasi

Experiences in North India

In an earlier post I wrote about the places to see in North India.  But India is foremost about experiencing it.  Here is my selection of unique experiences in North India.

Sleeper trains are clean and air-conditioned, a great way to travel long distances and still get maximum time in each place. Beds are padded berths with sheets, pillow and blanket provided but some people prefer to bring their own sleeping sheet. Please note you may be sharing with locals in a same gender/mixed gender situation.

Ganges boat ride: an early morning boat trip on the Ganges is an experience not easily forgotten.  From the moment you reach the ghats, the energy that comes with throngs of pilgrims bathing, singing and praying at the riverside, is palpable.  Witness it all from a small boat being rowed along the river.

Village stay: Enjoy a drive in open jeeps out into the countryside visiting rural villages and getting an insight into their lives - a special and unique experience indeed!

Heritage stay: be treated to a night of luxury in a wonderful heritage stay, often located in a fortified mansion still run by the erstwhile local landlord and his family. Such a place is a perfect place to take a break and immerse yourself in the local culture and lifestyle. The place is warm and people and staff friendly, welcoming all their guests and treating them as part of the family.

Camel safari: often done out of Jaisalmer and into the Thar Desert, exploring the desert with local Rajasthani camel drivers is the most authentic way to experience the area. You camp out in the desert, and, depending on the comfort level of your trip, you sleep in comfortable en-suite tents, or under the stars.

Discover the extravagance of a Bollywood blockbuster, with all the Hollywood-style elements of action, romance, drama and music (sometimes all rolled into one).  A great place to do this is at the spectacular Raj Mandir Cinema in Jaipur.

Shop to your heart's content in Delhi's Dilli Hat.  Dilli Haat is an open-air food plaza and cradia, showing a variety of cultural traditions of India.  Products offered may include rosewood and sandalwood carvings, embellished camel hide footwear, sophisticated fabric and drapery, gems, beads, brassware, metal crafts, and silk and wool fabrics. A number of shows promoting handicrafts and handlooms are held at the exhibition hall in the complex.

In Udaipur, be part of a musical concert combining seven traditional Rajasthani folk dances.

Held each November at the time of the Kartik Purnima full moon, the Pushkar Camel Fair is one of India’s most highly-rated travel experiences, a spectacle on an epic scale.  It’s a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to witness the colour, spectacle and carnival of one of the last great traditional melas, which brings livestock, farmers, traders and villagers from all over Rajasthan.

New Asia trips for 2014

In Asia we have the following new trips lined up for 2014.

In earlier blog posts I wrote about new walking and hiking trips and new cycling trips for 2014.  For less active cultural trips, we offer some great small-group tours.  Below is our lineup of new tours in Europe for 2014.  For more new trips ideas, click on these blog posts: Americas, Europe, Off-the-beaten-track.


Discover Bangladesh: this intoxicating new trip offers genuine experiences in a destination largely untouched and unexplored by foreign tourists. Outside the chaotic cities we discover the country's true beauty, including the lush tea plantations and rainforest around Srimongal, the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Paharpur and Bagerhat, as well as two days spent exploring the wilderness of Sundarbans National Park, the largest mangrove forest on earth. Bangladesh may not offer the grand sites of its neighbours but adventure is guaranteed and the open hearted people of this country are the true highlight.


Cambodia AOA: Cambodia, a diverse country with a captivating history, is unveiled during this trip. After arrival in bustling Phnom Penh we head to picturesque Kampot, a land of paddy fields and pepper plantations. We pause for lunch at Kep Bay to enjoy views across the Gulf of Thailand before transferring to Koh Kong, at the foot of the Cardamom Mountains. Returning to Phnom Penh we visit the Royal Palace and the sobering 'Killing Fields' before departing for Battambang, a well-preserved colonial town. Finally, we discover the temple complex of Angkor with a sunset visit and a bike ride to the less-visited temples.

Volcanoes and Temples of Indonesia: few countries can boast as much natural and cultural diversity as Indonesia. The largest archipelago in the world, it is made of over 17,500 beach-fringed tropical islands where terraced rice paddies give way to luxuriant jungles and are often dominated by towering volcanoes. Ancient cultures have left their mark with spectacular temples and their rich traditions are still practiced today in the country's towns and villages.

Classic Uzbekistan: strategically positioned along the Silk Route, the cities of Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva were famed trading centres for the caravans that passed this way in ancient times. On this trip we follow in their footsteps, discovering magnificent architecture and bustling bazaars that have changed little since the rule of Tamerlane. This is a spectacular journey to the heart of Central Asia.

New off-the-beaten-track trips for 2014

True adventures are found off the beaten track and we have some great trips lined up for 2014.

In earlier blog posts I wrote about new walking and hiking trips and new cycling trips for 2014.  For less active cultural trips, we offer some great small-group tours.  Below is our lineup of new tours in Europe for 2014.  For more new trips ideas, click on these blog posts: Americas, Europe, Asia.


Highlights of Nicaragua: from the twin peaks of Ometepe Island to the ashen slopes of Cerro Negro Volcano, the 'Land of Lakes and Volcanoes' is a great way to escape the crowds. Travel through misty cloud forest, full of birds, wildlife and the sweet smell of orchids, and to isolated Pacific beaches where nesting olive ridley turtles arrive en masse (in season). We also have time to enjoy colonial Granada and revolutionary Leon; rustic, charming cities.

Explore El Salvador: delve into the unassuming beauty of El Salvador and discover why this is one of the hidden gems of Central America. This trip gives you a sumptuous taste of life in this fascinating country, taking you from the lush nature reserves near Ahuachapan, to the charming colonial streets of Suchitoto and the buzzing capital of San Salvador. Sail onto brilliant blue lakes, hike among rich birdlife in spectacular national parks, and discover the Cerro Verde volcano. Walk down cobbled streets and admire colourful houses in a nostalgic small town, and discover a flourishing arts scene hiding behind old colonial doors. Then, bask in the hipster vibe of San Salvador’s bar and café scene and get immersed in a city bursting with energy and contradictions. There are plenty of things to love about El Salvador, and this trip reveals some of the best.

Northern Namibia and Angola: this is a trip for anyone who is ready to get away from the normal tourist trail and explore a remote but fascinating part of Southern Africa; a hardly inhabited area of dramatic beauty and incredible scenery where age-old tribes eke out a nomadic existence and animals roam beyond the borders of any national park. This is a pioneering journey through remote lands where few others have been, following faint sand tracks instead of roads, sleeping under the stars where no hotel would feature, and meeting the magnificent Himba tribe who are strangers to modern society and live as their ancestors have for many centuries.

Armenia, Georgia & Azerbaijan: the Caucasus region of Central Asia holds a wealth of unexplored territories. Wedged between two seas, surrounded by Europe's largest mountain range and straddling two continents, Azerbaijan, Georgia and Armenia are home to some extraordinarily beautiful scenery and incredibly hospitable people. Journey from the fascinating Old City of Baku in Azerbaijan through the quaint towns and glorious hillsides of Georgia, before finishing the adventure in Armenia's laid-back capital, Yerevan. Mixing isolated villages, populous capital cities, ancient castles, breathtaking vistas, abundant natural resources and a flashy nouveau riche, this region of Caucasia offers up a variety of surprising contrasts, fascinating sights and stunning landscapes.

Discover Bangladesh: this intoxicating new trip offers genuine experiences in a destination largely untouched and unexplored by foreign tourists. Outside the chaotic cities we discover the country's true beauty, including the lush tea plantations and rainforest around Srimongal, the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Paharpur and Bagerhat, as well as two days spent exploring the wilderness of Sundarbans National Park, the largest mangrove forest on earth. Bangladesh may not offer the grand sites of its neighbours but adventure is guaranteed and the open hearted people of this country are the true highlight.

In earlier blog posts I wrote about new walking and hiking trips and new cycling trips for 2014.  For less active cultural trips, we offer some great small-group tours.  Below is our lineup of new tours in Europe for 2014.  For more new trips ideas, click on these blog posts: Americas, Europe, Asia.